[Oberlist] RO* CfP: Modern Dress: Modes of Identification, Modes of Recognition in the Balkans (XVI-XXI Centuries), Bucharest, 13-14.6.2008

Lun Sep 24 22:25:19 CEST 2007

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---------------------------- Original Message ----------------------------
Subject: [balkans] CfP: Modern Dress: Modes of Identification, Modes of
Recognition in the Balkans (XVI-XXI Centuries), Bucharest,  13-14.6.2008
From:    "cristina ghitulescu" <c_ghitulescu la yahoo.fr>
Date:    Sun, September 23, 2007 21:32
To:      balkans la yahoogroups.com
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  Dear colleagues,

  New Europe College - Institute for Advanced Study in Bucharest, Romania,
is organizing a regional symposium, From Traditional Attire to the
Modern Dress: Modes of Identification, Modes of Recognition in the
Balkans (XVI-XXI Centuries). Please find further details concerning this
event below.

  The symposium is scheduled to take place on 13-14 June 2008 at the New
   Europe College, 21 Plantelor str., 023971 Bucharest, Romania. Our aim
is to gather scholars from prestigious research institutes and
universities in Central and South-eastern Europe (but also outside it),
who work on such topics. Should you be interested to take part in this
symposium, we kindly ask you to send us the title of your contribution
and a short abstract (200-300 words), together with a one-page CV
(including title, positions, institution, degrees, awards, main
publications) until 31 January, 2008. The selection committee will
inform you about their decision in due time (by the end of February at
the latest).

  The working languages of this international symposium will be French and
English. The organizers will cover travel and accommodation expenses
within the limits of the budget. We would be grateful if you could also
find additional financial support for participating in our symposium.

  Papers must be submitted by e-mail no later than 31 January 2008 to
Constanta Vintila-Ghitulescu :  c_ghitulescu la yahoo.fr

  Best wishes,

  Constanta Vintila-Ghitulescu
  Researcher, "Nicolae Iorga" Institute of History, Bucharest, Romania

  From traditional attire to the modern dress: modes of identification,
modes of recognition in the Balkans (XVI-XX Centuries)

  Convener: Constanþa Vintilã-Ghitulescu, historian, researcher at the
Nicolae Iorga Institute of History, Bucharest, NEC and GE-NEC alumna

  According to a Romanian saying, dress doesnt make a person. True as
it may be, the moral implications of this saying are of less concern to
us here than its possible social significance, which would rather
suggest its reading in the affirmative. In the past, dress was an
important social indicator. It told a lot about the social condition,
the status of a person, her wealth. But dress can also provide
information on the evolution of a society, on the dynamic interrelation
between fashion and social behavior. Dress can thus become the prime
matter for the analysis of a society through the joint efforts of
historians, anthropologists, ethnologists, and sociologists.
  The Balkans, a cultural, ethnic and social mosaic, provides an ideal
setting for such a research. One can find here similarities at a
regional level, and wide differences coexisting in proximity, in the
same geographic region. An oriental mode of dressing, induced by Ottoman
occupation or domination, was taken over by the elites of a community as
a token of loyalty towards the regime; side by side with it, one could
find a diversity of folk costumes, the garb of the common people. As
the Ottoman Empire declined, dress became one of the major means of
asserting the emancipation of the former subjects and the modernization
of the Balkan societies, of expressing the mental changes taking place
within them. In a Europe of nations, the folk costumes became bearers
of political and ideological meaning, emblems of the newly established
nations. Their instrumentalisation didnt end with the 19th century,
however. In some cases, they were rediscovered by the Communist
 regimes and put to use in the construction of a novel identity.

  The symposium proposes to gather researchers from various fields, and
from a number of academic and research centers in South-Eastern Europe
and in other parts of the world, inviting them to focus their
reflections on dress and its role in social, political, and ideological
change, on the lines suggested below:

  A. The significance of dress in the establishment and acceptance of a
political regime
  1.      the oriental dress and the modes of representation of a social
elite
  2.      from oriental attire to the tail coat: dress as an indicator
of modernization
  3.      dress and its manipulation in the process of social/political
emancipation

  B. Diversity in dress / Diversity of social categories
  1.      dress, color schemes, norms as indicators of social hierarchy
  2.      the dress of the parvenu as a symbol of social promotion
  3.      egalitarian modes of dressing and the leveling of social
visibility

  C. Dress and identity construction  1.      Romanticism and the
rediscovery of the national costume
  2.      identity construction  dress construction
  3.      the folk costume between tradition, modernity, and contemporary
handicraft
  4.      fashion: lost or reconfigured meanings in a unified Europe

  The preservation of local identities in an enlarged European Community
has become a growing concern. Can dress still define social categories
and peoples? Or do certain types of traditional dress become mere museum
objects? Do they find refuge in a handicraft that reinvents and
refashions an idealized, barely known, largely imaginary past? The
symposium will attempt to investigate the ways in which dress entered
the political, social and cultural play; the major role attributed to
dress by social actors in a more or less distant past, and within its
various constructions; its instrumentalisation in modern times, in
search of identity. The Balkans, where an earlier common history
developed into a variety of distinct trajectories, are a particularly
propitious field for such a research, which may shed some light on
certain peculiarities of Balkanism.

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